ariety Jones isn’t just a restaurant - it’s a reflection of passion, family, and fearless creativity. From its distinctive open-fire cooking to earning a Michelin star in its very first year, this Dublin gem has carved out a unique place in the culinary scene.
Co-owned by brothers Keelan and Aaron Higgs, Variety Jones is a restaurant that draws on deep family memories and unconventional inspiration, seamlessly marrying tradition with bold innovation.
At the helm is head chef Keelan Higgs, formerly of Locks Brasserie, The Greenhouse, and Chapter One. His confident and focused approach to seasonal cooking shines through his ingredient-driven, shared tasting menu, which unites global influences with the finest Irish produce.
In this interview, we dive into the story behind the name, the lessons learned in prestigious kitchens, and the challenges faced on the journey to success, uncovering what truly drives the heart and soul of this remarkable restaurant.
If you were to describe Variety Jones in three words, what would they be?
Irish, independent and legends.
The name ‘Variety Jones‘ has a unique origin. Can you share the story behind the name and how it reflects the identity of the restaurant?
Long story short, we met a man named Mongoose. He was nice – super friendly and funny. My brother got to know him quite well. Some time passed, and we heard he’d been arrested, and that attempts were being made to extradite him to the States. It’s alleged he co-created the Silk Road and went by the moniker ‘Variety Jones’.
You’ve worked in several prestigious kitchens – what were the most significant lessons you took from those experiences when opening your own restaurant?
The most significant lessons I learned working for other people were mostly about what I wouldn’t do if I opened a restaurant. That, and how to run a busy section in a restaurant and the importance of consistency.
Variety Jones earned a Michelin star in its very first year and has held it since 2019. What has that recognition meant for you and your team, and how has it influenced the way you run the restaurant?
The star was a major pat on the back in an industry where pats on the back don’t come easy. I didn’t design the restaurant to be a Michelin-starred restaurant – I designed it so I could do it how I wanted to do it. The fact that we got recognised by Michelin was a confirmation that I was right in my approach and that I should continue to develop it.
Your restaurant is known for its open-fire cooking. What drew you to this particular style, and what do you believe it brings to the dining experience?
I get bored easily, and fire is a method of cooking that was completely new to me – a completely new set of rules and subtleties to get stuck into. I guess that’s what drew me to it.
The fire is always changing and fluctuating in temperature, so no dish is really the same all the time. Things get burnt, charred, smoked. It keeps things really interesting and allows our food to constantly evolve.
Family clearly plays a big role in your restaurant – from co-owning it with your brother to drawing inspiration from family memories. You’ve spoken about your father’s influence and your family’s love of food. Are there any specific childhood dishes that have directly shaped the menu at Variety Jones?
Food was always a massive thing in our house growing up, and gathering around the family table and sharing was a must. That’s pretty much the foundation of what we do in the restaurant. Spaghetti Alfredo was a big hit when we were kids, so my version has been on the menu since day one.
You’ve created such a distinctive atmosphere here. When guests leave, what’s the one feeling you want them to take with them?
The concept is simple here – good food, good wine, good music, good craic. We want you to leave feeling like you had a great meal, a great time, and that you can’t wait to come back.
How do you keep finding inspiration and the drive to create new dishes?
I guess it comes back to me getting bored quick. I’m not the most technical chef, and I’m not necessarily classically trained. But I do have a good palate, and I reckon I have a natural affinity for what flavours work together. Obviously, I’d like to hone and develop those skills and keep myself entertained – that’s what drives my creativity.
What has been the toughest challenge you’ve faced so far in your career?
We’ve faced many challenges and hard lessons in our seven years of operating. The hardest was me and Aaron completely gutting, financing, designing, and building our first restaurant in the space of three months.
The second hardest was investing all our money and time into a second premises and then watching it go on fire in our second week of operation.
The third – the COVID debacle, which ruined many restaurants.
You studied at TU Dublin and have spoken about the importance of internships. What’s the single most important piece of advice would you give to a young aspiring chef?
The best advice I can give to a young chef is to get out of your comfort zone. Go somewhere where you can’t speak the language, work in a restaurant cooking food you don’t know, and push yourself to learn everything you can about the environment you’ve put yourself in. In short: apply yourself, be brave, be passionate, work with conviction, and for God’s sake, “rage, rage against the dying of the light.”
Read our full review of our experience at Variety Jones, here.
For more information, visit https://www.varietyjones.ie/.
